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Are you sitting comfortably, or should I say effectively?
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The illustration (left) should help you to see how your seat bones should lie on the horse’s back. The knobbly bit, below the seat bones, that also lies on the horse’s back muscle, is the greater trochanter and the bit above that leading into the hip joint is the neck of the femur. Some riders are more aware of this part of their leg than they are of their seat bones, so the instruction to ‘advance a hip’ is easier to understand than advance a seat bone. Maybe you’re one of these?
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II prefer the term ‘advance’ rather than ‘weigh’. I think weight can put the wrong idea into a rider’s
head of what is actually required and they end up contorting themselves, stiffening and blocking the horse in an attempt to get (more) weight onto a seat bone.
As you advance a hip/ seat bone the other one will
corresponding drop back and automatically place the outside leg into the guarding position. Remember, this placing of a lower leg comes from the hip joint, not from the knee! And it is only a matter of a few inches, with an attitude of back and down (heel towards hock on same side) not back and half way up the horse’s flank with the heel pointing upwards too !
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(It is also interesting to note how the hip joints
lie above the seat bones and how this freedom to move independently is a vital part of riding, especially when it comes to sitting the trot and canter.)
OK, so just how do we achieve this advancing or weighting of a seat bone?
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When I figured out that the horse was getting me
to 'close' the hinge - by pushing her croup up and dropping her back- I realised I had to keep the hinge 'open'. This didn't entail arching the back and moving the pelvis; it meant not letting it be moved out of position in the first place by actively using muscles to hold it 'open'.'. This isn't a singular positional 'hold' but one that constantly adjusts with all the nuances of the horse's movement in order to give the appearance of the rider remaining 'still'.
If we start with the hinge completely open, at 180º, we have the
equivalent of the 17th Century riders or even some modern mainstream dressage riders (!). By playing around with different angles in the top and bottom you can come up with versions of the chair and fork seat. But the ideal is a vertical top part (representing the straight line between shoulder and hip) and a bottom part angled at 140º (this represents the average angle in the torso/thigh alignment in good riders). I have made up a useful teaching aid by attaching a second hinge at the end of the’ thigh’ to represent the knee joint and show how the lower leg angles backwards from it.
This 'opening' and
'closing' of the hinge is also applicable in the sitting trot (and turns!) It's this constant adjustment that allows the rider's and horse's back movement to become synchronised, the rider’s legs to ‘lengthen’ and it permits the hips to swing with the motion in a way not noticed before.
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Take Care:
You may get anything from a 'warmness' to an 'intense burning' sensation in either your hip area and/or the area where your torso and legs join. This is a good sign :-) but don't overdo it. Back down and have a break before trying again, otherwise you risk tearing/damaging muscles. Exactly the same as when gymnasticizing a horse, you want to increase your suppleness gradually; it cannot be achieved instantly.
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* In my case, the muscles I needed to engage more were the obliques, but you may need to find your Psoas and/or Rectus Abdominis. Check out my Muscles page, if you aren’t sure where these important muscles are.
Regardless of which abdominal muscles you need to engage, I expect you will need to discover your
Iliotibial band (!).
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As with all riding muscles, these (and the abs
that you need to find/engage) are not engaged permanently in a braced fashion. They must be controlled in a series of flexions and contractions within the horse's rhythm. One of my most frequently used instructions is: You cannot begin to influence the horse until you are in the same rhythm.
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